When I was small, no one ever said, you know, ‘Don’t eat that’ or ‘You're eating too much’ or ‘Control your appetite.’ That was never part of my upbringing,” she says. That’s such a radical inheritance in terms of women’s relationship to appetite and to food. Kennedy dedicated the book to her brother and grandmother, the latter of whom, she says, taught her “how to eat” rather than how to cook. Across 232 pages, she argues that vegetarianism and veganism need to become integral to how we farm, cook, and eat in this era of climate change, rather than simply personal preferences. (It’s also where Kennedy shares personal recipes for paid subscribers, like vegetarian empanadas or the perfect dirty martini.) She doubles down on this approach in her debut book, No Meat Required: The Cultural History and Culinary Future of Plant-Based Eating, out today from Beacon Press. There was also, of course, the blogging era, when it seemed like anyone who could chop, slice, or sauté could be a food content creator with the help of some basic HTML and an iPhone.Īlicia Kennedy-the Long Island–raised, Puerto Rico–based writer and author-is in neither of these categories, and yet she’s managed to build a devout following of food industry peers and aficionados based on her popular newsletter From the Desk of Alicia Kennedy, which looks at how food shapes our lives more than we might think. Previous decades have been defined by the culinary juggernauts who shaped what we ate and how we cooked: Emeril Lagasse, Martha Stewart, Ina Garten, Nigella Lawson, and essentially anyone else who ever had a series on the Food Network. Food media is a fickle world, and like most industries, it has evolved-for better and for worse-with the times.
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